Lisboa Saudade


Te adoro, discreta Lisboa… Adoro esa sensación de los primeros minutos en los que vuelvo a poner mis pies en esta bella ciudad. Llueva o brille el sol, Lisboa me hace sentir esa “saudade” de la que sólo los portugueses saben, y yo también en algún momento, he llegado a saber de su significado único. Saudade es un término de traducción casi imposible, Manuel de Melo dijo en el sXVII que es «bem que se padece e mal de que se gosta» (bien que se padece y mal que se disfruta).

Con la brisa de la mañana se me despiertan las ganas de vagar por Chiado, aunque no tenga nada que hacer, pasar frente a la Igreja do Carmo, la Praça do Rossio… y pese a que la ciudad y yo ya nos hemos reconocido, esta vez me sorprende. La semana que viene empiezan las clases en las universidades y soy testigo de un ritual que llevan a cabo los alumnos de primer curso de la facultad de ingenieros aeronáuticos: acompañados de alumnos de otros cursos hacen toda una celebración en plena calle. Cantan, bailan y piden a la vida tener éxito en su carrera. Los asistentes pueden contribuir con una donación para ayudarles a pagar los libros. En Portugal la universidad es bastante cara, y los estudiantes tienen que costeárselo todo. La energía de ese ritual, sencillamente, me ha chiflado. ¡Qué alegría ver cómo los valores de siempre se perpetúan gracias a estos jóvenes con toda la vida por delante!

Portugal, su gente, su comida “ay sarandonga un arroz con bacalhau”… Portugal, su música que tantos sentires despierta… Sin ir más lejos, ahora mismo escribo con el ritmo de fondo de una banda portuguesa espectacular que me ha dado a conocer mi amiga Begoña enviándome un link. Gracias, Begoña, esos detalles me hacen sentir muy cuidada, muy querida. Comparto su bonito detalle con todos vosotros, y os invito a escuchar a este pedazo de artista que es António Zambujo y su Flagrante.

Y en este bar Bastardo en el que me encuentro, a ritmo de Flagrante, en esta Lisboa que adoro y que hoy se ha convertido en el rincón desde el que os busco y os encuentro, os cuento que uno de mis rituales favoritos en esta ciudad se me ha truncado esta vez. No habrá esta vez cena en el 100 maneiras porque mi amiga Sofia está al norte de Portugal y me ha dejado sin su abrazo y su mirada de toro bravo. Oh, mia Sofia, cuánto te echo de menos… não me deixe sozinha eu quero rir com você. He castigado su desplante cantando una canción que también comparto con vosotros  😉

Nunca me cansaré de dar las gracias a Joana Figueira por el acercamiento que me hizo tener con Portugal y los portugueses, que condicionó mi mirada de esta tierra para siempre. Su cuidado de las relaciones, sus sentires profundos y su amabilidad conquistaron mi corazón, y no me extraña en absoluto que en otras épocas conquistaran el mundo entero.


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