Arte y amistad en la Provenza

Arte y amistad en otoño en la Provenza

Arte y amistad

“El futuro del arte moderno está aquí”, escribió Van Gogh a sus colegas cuando se apeó de un tren en Arlés. La Provenza le cautivó y no llegó al final de ese viaje, Marsella.

En la Provenza el otoño se desprende de los campos de lavanda y su color tiñe el morado de amarillo, de naranja. La campiña francesa tiene ese savoir faire que hace que cada cosa esencial de la naturaleza parezca puesta ante ti para su disfrute. Como si lo natural fuera descorchar una botella de vino y empezar con los amigos una conversación con sentido y arte. Y es que su luz hace vibrar los colores. Una luz que calificaron de amarillo azufre, de amarillo limón… Un maravilloso amarillo en otoño.

La idea de Van Gogh de formar un atelier du Midi no llegó a buen puerto pero la Provenza ha sido caladero de tantos y tantos artistas que vinieron aquí a reinventar su pintura. Cézanne, Gauguin, Matisse, Renoir, Picasso…

El arte y los amigos es lo que me ha traído al sur de Francia estos días. Reencontrarme con Luisa y perseguir juntas cualquier camino que el arte nos ponga por delante. Porque la amistad crece cuando se comparte el gusto por el arte. Juntas visitamos Céret, un pequeño pueblo del pirineo donde Picasso y los cubistas solían veranear a principios del siglo pasado. Allí, en su Museo de Arte Moderno nos reencontramos con parte de su legado: las tauromaquias. Y junto a ellas, la obra del excepcional escultor barcelonés Jaume Plensa: Le silence de la pensée. Touché. Arte y Amistad. Luisa y yo descubrimos juntas a Jaume en un viaje a Chicago hace años. Y otra vez se cruzan los caminos del arte y de la amistad.

Luisa y yo hemos viajado mucho juntas. Este viaje terminó en Collioure, rindiendo tributo a Machado, a sus últimos días, y los últimos de su madre, durante cinco días triste superviviente de su hijo. Terminó en un momento de reflexión alrededor de una tumba, alrededor de los muertos. Allí, mientras una banda sonora inexistente ponía en voz de Serrat “pero los muertos están en cautiverio, y no nos dejan salir del cementerio” Luisa y yo recuperamos otra de las anécdotas de nuestros viajes. Otra vez en un cementerio pero esta vez en Maine, buscando la tumba de nuestra admirada Marguerite Yourcenar. Horas y horas paseando entre lápidas tratando de convencer a nuestros amigos, que no admiraban tanto a la Yourcenar, de que merecía la pena. Horas y horas sin éxito, pese a ser un cementerio pequeño. Hasta que mi hijo de 8 años tuvo que descargar la vejiga y, cómo son las cosas, al apartarse un poco del grupo fue a dar con la tumba de Marguerite. Aquella visita al cementerio terminó en un estallido de risas. El mismo que recuperamos al brindar una vez más, en la Provenza, por el arte y la amistad.

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